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Shooting moving objects
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destiny016



Joined: 31 Aug 2011
Posts: 8

Posted: Wed 31 Aug, 2011 8:59 pm    Subject: Shooting moving objects Reply with quote

Hi, I was just wondering if somebody could help me what setting I should use for taking pictures of moving objects. I am using Canon 550D and Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS. My main object is show jumping horses. Has anybody got experience with taking pictures of jumping horses? I tried to use "SPORT" mode but very often my pictures are blure of some reason and often not sharp enough Sad
Maybe I am doing something wrong as obviously I am beginner. Should I use "M" mode? and if yes what parameters I should set up? Or should I use different lens? Btw I am shooting outside and in daylight. Thanks guys for your answers.
Joseph
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Tiberius



Joined: 18 Nov 2006
Posts: 369

Posted: Thu 01 Sep, 2011 4:15 am    Subject: Reply with quote

Focussing can be tricky when shooting fast moving objects. It's probably a good idea to set the camera so it uses only one focus point, then all you have to do is make sure you keep that focus point on the subject. Also try setting the focus mode to AI servo, that way it won't lock into focus, but will keep focussing on the focus point. Helpful if the subject suddenly changes distance, or if the subject is moving towards you or away from you.

As for the settings, it will be best to have the camera in Shutter priority mode. If you want to freeze the action, set a fast shutter speed. 1/200 should be okay if it's a person running, but for race cars you'll need something faster. For the horses you are looking to shoot, a speed of about 1/250 should be enough to freeze them, but play around and experiment with different shutter speeds. Keep an eye on your aperture, as you may get it opened up as far as it will go. if this is the case, you might need to increase your ISO to get a good exposure.

If you want to get the background blurred, you'll need to try a technique called "panning". This uses a slower shutter speed, maybe 1/50 second, and you turn the camera as the subject moves past you. It's a great technique because it really captures the impression of movement (so racecars will look like they are speding around the track instead of just being parked there), but it is a very tricky technique. You'll need to try many shots with this technique to get a few good ones.

Also check the image stabilisation mode. SOme lenses have two different modes. One will adjust for all movement, but others will only adjust for up and down movement. If you are going to try panning, make sure that the lens is set to adjust for only up and down movement, otherwise the lens will try to adjust for the sideways movement caused by the panning technique.
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destiny016



Joined: 31 Aug 2011
Posts: 8

Posted: Thu 01 Sep, 2011 6:47 pm    Subject: Reply with quote

Hi Tiberius, thank you for your reply. I will try your settings next time we go to show which probably will be in few days. I will use "TV" mode. I already set focus only on one (middle) point as many times happened that I took picture of fence instead of horse as camera chosen closer object as I was using all focus points. But bigest mistake I was doing was that I never foloved object as your advice says, instead I was waiting till horse came to the fence and then I was shooting. One more question, what about "picture style" should I leave it as standard?
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Tiberius



Joined: 18 Nov 2006
Posts: 369

Posted: Sat 03 Sep, 2011 1:51 am    Subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I leave mine as standard. I find that it's better adjusting things like colour saturation and brightness on the computer after taking the photo, as it gives more control. And if you are shooting raw, then it doesn't make any difference at all.
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destiny016



Joined: 31 Aug 2011
Posts: 8

Posted: Sat 03 Sep, 2011 9:18 am    Subject: Reply with quote

Okay I'll leave it as standard then. You mentined RAW, does it make any difference between shooting in RAW and JPEG? I mean quality of picture and speed of frames per second? I'm shooting in JPEG and then trying to edit pictures in Elements7 and Lightroom3.
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JR



Joined: 26 Aug 2011
Posts: 19
Location: Devon UK

Posted: Sat 03 Sep, 2011 11:22 am    Subject: Reply with quote

If we are talking show jumping or round a course/track it is simple.

Find a spot you like, such as a jump, set ap priority and use an ASA between 400 and 1000 depending on the light conditions.

Use a monopod to follow the event simply to keep your arms from getting worn out.

Focus on the middle of the jump/hurdle then set it to Manual focus and leave it.

Then simply estimate the DOF (depth of field, that scale on most lenses for a given ap) you need for the horse to be in focus, (basic photography), eg, say it is sunny and you need the horse to be in focus nose to tail, f11, at 800asa would probably be a shutter speed of 1/400th chosen by the camera.

Sounds complicated, it isn't.

I never use RAW, sorry, and I have been into digital since the Apple quicktake
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JR



Joined: 26 Aug 2011
Posts: 19
Location: Devon UK

Posted: Sat 03 Sep, 2011 11:25 am    Subject: Reply with quote

JR wrote:
If we are talking show jumping or round a course/track it is simple.

Find a spot you like, such as a jump, set ap priority and use an ASA between 400 and 1000 depending on the light conditions.

Use a monopod to follow the event I have a gimbal attached to my pod all the time, and to my Giottos pod.


Focus on the middle of the jump/hurdle then set it to Manual focus and leave it.

Then simply estimate the DOF (depth of field, that scale on most lenses for a given ap) you need for the horse to be in focus, (basic photography), eg, say it is sunny and you need the horse to be in focus nose to tail, f11, at 800asa would probably be a shutter speed of 1/400th chosen by the camera.

Sounds complicated, it isn't.

I never use RAW, sorry, and I have been into digital since the Apple quicktake
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destiny016



Joined: 31 Aug 2011
Posts: 8

Posted: Sat 03 Sep, 2011 1:12 pm    Subject: Reply with quote

JR wrote:
If we are talking show jumping or round a course/track it is simple.

Find a spot you like, such as a jump, set ap priority and use an ASA between 400 and 1000 depending on the light conditions.

Use a monopod to follow the event simply to keep your arms from getting worn out.

Focus on the middle of the jump/hurdle then set it to Manual focus and leave it.

Then simply estimate the DOF (depth of field, that scale on most lenses for a given ap) you need for the horse to be in focus, (basic photography), eg, say it is sunny and you need the horse to be in focus nose to tail, f11, at 800asa would probably be a shutter speed of 1/400th chosen by the camera.

Sounds complicated, it isn't.

I never use RAW, sorry, and I have been into digital since the Apple quicktake


Well it does sound complicated to me ha ha. I wil need lots of practise but that's what it is all about, isn't it
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JR



Joined: 26 Aug 2011
Posts: 19
Location: Devon UK

Posted: Sat 03 Sep, 2011 1:20 pm    Subject: Reply with quote

In fact if you think about it it is simple.

Place the camera on the mount or hold it

Focus on the jump in manual

Set Ap at f11 in ap priority

ajust the ISO (asa) speed up and down till you get a shutter speed about 1/500th at f11

Take photo

Done.

Most of the shots I take are with the camera on M and flash also on manual, it is VERY easy but it ONLY comes with practice.




In fact when taking this I was 40' away with a mug of coffe any my cat on my lap with a wireless remote in my hand!

Photography is as easy or as hard as you make it, BUT you need to learn by asking and TRYING.



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Tiberius



Joined: 18 Nov 2006
Posts: 369

Posted: Sat 03 Sep, 2011 2:56 pm    Subject: Reply with quote

destiny016 wrote:
Okay I'll leave it as standard then. You mentined RAW, does it make any difference between shooting in RAW and JPEG? I mean quality of picture and speed of frames per second? I'm shooting in JPEG and then trying to edit pictures in Elements7 and Lightroom3.


RAW format sends all the information from the camera's sensor to the storage card. If you like to have ultimate control over your iomages, then you should use this, but the simple fact is that many people, including a lot of sports pros, shoot with Fine Jpegs. The benefits of Jpegs are that the camera can store more shots in the buffer when you are shooting in burst mode, which is important when you are shooting sports. No good to have a camera that won't shoot because it's waiting for the buffer to empty. Technically, the image quality is not as good as RAW images, because the camera does a bit of processing and compressing when you shoot jpegs, but the loss of quality won't be noticable unless you are a hardcore pixel peeper.

If it was me, I'd shoot jpegs, but then I nearly always shoot jpegs because they are easier to edit and I don't edit my shots much anyway. But you should try both and see what works best for you.
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JR



Joined: 26 Aug 2011
Posts: 19
Location: Devon UK

Posted: Sat 03 Sep, 2011 3:09 pm    Subject: Reply with quote

Tiberius wrote:
destiny016 wrote:
Okay I'll leave it as standard then. You mentined RAW, does it make any difference between shooting in RAW and JPEG? I mean quality of picture and speed of frames per second? I'm shooting in JPEG and then trying to edit pictures in Elements7 and Lightroom3.


RAW format sends all the information from the camera's sensor to the storage card. If you like to have ultimate control over your iomages, then you should use this, but the simple fact is that many people, including a lot of sports pros, shoot with Fine Jpegs. The benefits of Jpegs are that the camera can store more shots in the buffer when you are shooting in burst mode, which is important when you are shooting sports. No good to have a camera that won't shoot because it's waiting for the buffer to empty. Technically, the image quality is not as good as RAW images, because the camera does a bit of processing and compressing when you shoot jpegs, but the loss of quality won't be noticable unless you are a hardcore pixel peeper.

If it was me, I'd shoot jpegs, but then I nearly always shoot jpegs because they are easier to edit and I don't edit my shots much anyway. But you should try both and see what works best for you.



Ditto
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destiny016



Joined: 31 Aug 2011
Posts: 8

Posted: Sat 03 Sep, 2011 3:11 pm    Subject: Reply with quote

JR wrote:
In fact if you think about it it is simple.

Place the camera on the mount or hold it

Focus on the jump in manual

Set Ap at f11 in ap priority

ajust the ISO (asa) speed up and down till you get a shutter speed about 1/500th at f11

Take photo

Done.

Most of the shots I take are with the camera on M and flash also on manual, it is VERY easy but it ONLY comes with practice.




In fact when taking this I was 40' away with a mug of coffe any my cat on my lap with a wireless remote in my hand!

Photography is as easy or as hard as you make it, BUT you need to learn by asking and TRYING.







Yeah I will try that's for sure. My gf is show jumper so I best get into shape pretty much quickly. BTW that picture of bird is very nice.
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destiny016



Joined: 31 Aug 2011
Posts: 8

Posted: Sat 03 Sep, 2011 3:18 pm    Subject: Reply with quote

Tiberius wrote:
destiny016 wrote:
Okay I'll leave it as standard then. You mentined RAW, does it make any difference between shooting in RAW and JPEG? I mean quality of picture and speed of frames per second? I'm shooting in JPEG and then trying to edit pictures in Elements7 and Lightroom3.


RAW format sends all the information from the camera's sensor to the storage card. If you like to have ultimate control over your iomages, then you should use this, but the simple fact is that many people, including a lot of sports pros, shoot with Fine Jpegs. The benefits of Jpegs are that the camera can store more shots in the buffer when you are shooting in burst mode, which is important when you are shooting sports. No good to have a camera that won't shoot because it's waiting for the buffer to empty. Technically, the image quality is not as good as RAW images, because the camera does a bit of processing and compressing when you shoot jpegs, but the loss of quality won't be noticable unless you are a hardcore pixel peeper.

If it was me, I'd shoot jpegs, but then I nearly always shoot jpegs because they are easier to edit and I don't edit my shots much anyway. But you should try both and see what works best for you.





I'll give it go. I bought bigger and faster SD card (SanDisk Extreme clas 10 30MB/s) so I will soot both JPEG and RAW so I can compare. Do you think are Elements 7 and Lightroom good programs for edditing pics?
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JR



Joined: 26 Aug 2011
Posts: 19
Location: Devon UK

Posted: Sat 03 Sep, 2011 3:19 pm    Subject: Reply with quote

This is better

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JR



Joined: 26 Aug 2011
Posts: 19
Location: Devon UK

Posted: Sat 03 Sep, 2011 3:21 pm    Subject: Reply with quote

Rarely does flash bother horses (always ask) but fill flash with a GOOD gun should freeze the action
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