Notes on the Canon EOS
Elan. (EOS 100)
© 2000 NK Guy
some extensive commentary on the original Canon EOS Elan (or EOS 100) camera.
Hopefully someone out there might find it interesting or useful. When I was
doing my own research for a used camera I found very little information on
this particular camera for some reason. So here are my thoughts and observations.
If you want
to read up on how to use this camera Ive put together an unofficial
The EOS Elan,
aimed at advanced amateurs, is the North American version of the
100. It was introduced in 1991 and officially discontinued in 1996. In
the early 90s Canons EOS product lineup looked like this, from most expensive
1 > 10/10s > 100/Elan > 1000/Rebel
it looked like this after the very first Canon EOS cameras had been discontinued
- the 620, 650, 750, etc.) By the mid 90s the lineup had changed to:
1n > 5/A2 > 50/Elan II> 500 > 5000/888
and it is now
1v > 3 > 30/Elan 7*> 300/Rebel 2000 > 3000/88
The Elan is
basically the same as the 100, only it was given a name and not a number in
North America, purely for marketing reasons. There are some minor differences
in functionality, however, between the 100 and the Elan. For example, the
flash doesnt pop up automatically on the Elan the way it does on the
100, allegedly because Canon didnt want to pay the American owner of
the popup flash patent. Another small difference is that the EOS 100 can beep
when autofocus is achieved if the beeper is enabled; the EOS Elan has no autofocus
beep at all.
* Yes, I know
that the equivalent of the EOS 30 is actually the Elan 7E (or EOS 7 in Japan);
the EOS 33 being the actual equivalent of the Elan 7. Close enough.
I think the
Elan/100 is a pretty decent camera. It does most of what the typical amateur
needs, and used ones can be bought relatively inexpensively. The only things
that the newer models have going for them, really, are better flash control
(E-TTL, FEL and FP), more focus points and less easily fooled metering owing
to more metering segments. The Elan/100 is pretty feature-packed for such
an old camera. Its really a shame it cant use high-speed infrared film without
fogging it, and its also too bad that Canon wont acknowledge the design
flaw of the easily-broken command dial.
more about the Elan/EOS 100.
You first stop
should be my online Elan/100
mini-manual. Its an unofficial free manual thoroughly documenting
how to use this camera.
site has a useful
list comparing the original Elan with the Elan II. Theres another
page which compares the Elan
with the 10S and the EOS 630. And this is the original
news release trumpeting the Elan, from Canon USA. If you can read Spanish,
heres a copy of part of the EOS
100 operating manual in Spanish that someones scanned and put online.
Canon dont make copies of their old manuals available online as downloadable
documents, though apparently you can order reprints from them. There was also
a third party Magic Lantern Guide book published on the Elan/100 (ISBN 1-883403-21-9)
which you might be able to find in camera shops, though I understand it may
now be out of print. This book, by Steve Pollock, covers the operation of
the camera at greater length than the manual, but is aimed at novice users.
Stuff I like
about the Elan/100.
- For a plastic-bodied
camera, it seems moderately sturdy. Theres a bit of play on the camera
back which I dont like, but otherwise it appears to be well made. It
has a steel lens mount, not plastic (polycarbonate) like the low-end Canons.
Keep in mind, however, that although the lens mount is metal its attached
to a plastic frame, so its not as sturdy as a pro EOS camera thats
metal all the way through. The key advantage of metal mounts is that theyre
superior to plastic in terms of wear resistance, which is important if you
change lenses a lot.
- Its a
good size. A bit big for a lot of occasions, perhaps, since people tend to
get apprehensive when they see a large camera looming towards them (compared
to a typical consumer camera, its sizeable. Compared to a pro camera
its small) and tend to associate big camera with professional photographer.
So its not that great for casual snapshots. But neither is it a monstrously
heavy solid metal beast like an EOS 1 or 3. It feels solid in the hand; good
heft. Like all cameras these days its designed for right-handed people,
but frankly left-handed users havent got much choice in that regard.
Physically the Elan/100 is much rounder than the earliest EOS cameras, but
fatter and chunkier-looking than the newest ones. The large flash
housing (it has a motor for the zoom feature) contributes a great deal to
this non-svelte outline. Canon seems to have dropped zooming flash for the
built-ins, resulting in sleeker lines for the new cameras. (eg: Rebel 2000/EOS
300 and Elan 7/EOS 30)
- The basic feature
set is pretty complete. All the usual metering modes - manual, full auto,
time and aperture priority. Built-in flash, fine for fill flash when you dont
feel like lugging around a big external flash gun. Second-curtain
shutter sync. Lots of custom
functions. Plus piles of other stuff, like the usual idiot modes (portrait,
landscape, macro, sports - night mode being the only missing one), auto bracketing,
depth of field exposure mode, multiple exposure settings, AI servo focus tracking,
- Rear quick
control dial. Its great to be able to be in manual mode and adjust the
aperture and shutter speed values with one hand - thumb for the back dial
and index finger for the top dial. You can also use the dial for program shifting.
The Elan/100 was the first consumer EOS camera to have one of these dials,
and boy do you miss it if you have to go to a EOS camera that lacks it!
- Its very
quiet. At least for an SLR. The Elan/100 is renowned for being one of the
most quiet SLRs Canons ever made, since it uses a belt drive to move
film, though I think Canon is now saying that the new Elan 7/EOS 30 is quieter.
Im not sure about this myself - the Elan 7/EOS 30 seems pretty quiet,
but it also has a higher-frequency mirror-click noise than the original Elan/100,
which I find distracting. The original Elan/100 is quieter than the Elan II/50,
and very quiet compared to deafening tanks like the EOS 3. It is not,
however, silent. No matter what Canons promotional material may claim.
The buzzing zoom motor on the built-in flash is, in fact, the noisiest aspect
of the thing in operation. (the Elan II/50 lacks a zooming flash, though its
flash does have a higher guide number - it can put out more light.) Or if
you have an old non-ultrasonic lens with an arc-form drive motor, the lens
autofocusing might be more obtrusively noisy.
I like quiet cameras. I suppose noisy cameras are good at impressing people
with their solid clunk sound, but I really dont find that personally
interesting. The only advantage I can think of for a noisy camera is in fashion
photography, because apparently models are familiar with changing poses when
they hear the camera click.
- Discreet red
light. The Rebel 2000/EOS 300 and new Elan 7/EOS 30 flash the main flash
unit for AF (autofocus) assist, which is extremely annoying and distracting
for your photo subjects. Not to mention a huge battery drain. I much prefer
the patterned red light, which bothers subjects considerably less. I guess
Canon moved to using the flash since large lenses can block the AF assist
light and to save a few yen by eliminating the high-intensity LED. Custom
function 4 lets you disable the AF assist light if you want. The Elan/100
also correctly supports AF assist lights on external flash units, unlike the
10/10s and 5/A2.
- The wireless
remote control. Very useful indeed. It has the obvious application of letting
you trigger group grin photos from within the group, but its utility goes
beyond that. You can do 2-second mirror pre-fire lockup with it. In bulb mode
you can press once to open the shutter and once again to close it, and since
its wireless you arent bumping the camera.
- Mirror prefire
lockup. Its not true mirror lockup, since you cant just lock the
mirror when you feel like it, but custom function 7 lets you set a 10-second
mirror prefire lock on timer mode or 2-second when using the RC-1 remote.
Which is all Id use MLU for anyway - reducing the mirror-slap vibrations
which might blur slow-shutter exposures.
- Flash sync
of up to 1/125. Some lower-end Canons (eg: the Rebel 2000/EOS 300) can only
go as high as 1/90. (of course, the high-end ones go up to 1/250, and E-TTL
Canons also have pulsed FP flash which simulates even higher flash sync.)
and vertical (cross) AF sensors, unlike some earlier Canons which could only
detect one plane - vertical lines.
- AE lock button
on the back, by your right thumb. This is also used for DOF preview if you
enable custom function 5.
- You can switch
between the three available metering methods - evaluative, partial and centre-weighted
averaging - as you like. For the record, the Elan uses the same less than
entirely intuitive iconic system for identifying the various meter modes as
the old T90. Evaluative metering appears as [(*)] in the LCD, partial
metering appears as [( )] and centre-weighted average metering
appears as [ ]. Unfortunately this information is
not displayed in the viewfinder - just the top-deck LCD.
- The partial
metering mode covers 6.5% of the image area, compared to 9.5% for the Elan
II/50 and 10% for the Elan 7/30. Odd that the Elan/100 is better than the
newer cameras in this regard, but there you go. 6.5% isnt a true spotmeter
(which would cover 1 or 2 percent), but its useful enough for me. The
coverage area of the partial metering mode is indicated by the larger clear
circle in the viewfinder.
- Built-in flash
wont pop up automatically in the idiot modes. The 100 does this, but
the Elan doesnt for patent licensing reasons. Thing is, I like being
in control of whether flash is needed or not, so I consider this a bonus and
not a missing feature. The flash also zooms to accommodate three different
lens focal length coverage areas; the first zoomable built-in flash on an
SLR, I understand. This is handy, albeit a bit noisy as noted above, because
it permits the flash to spit out more light at longer focal lengths.
- Whether you
set the shutter speed value using Tv mode or M mode or the aperture value
using Av mode or M mode, the Elan/100 remembers the values, even when turned
off. It appears to store the two values as two variables. (ie: the M mode
settings are not retained independently of the Av and Tv mode settings) This
is in contrast to older cameras like the 10/10s which stupidly always forget
your settings when you go back to them.
- 3 frames per
second shooting speed in one-shot mode. (2.5 in AI servo) Which I never need
since I dont shoot sports, but I suppose it might be handy someday when
Uncle Fred falls into the swimming pool. If I had an Uncle Fred. Oddly, the
Elan II/30 is slower than the Elan/100, at only 2.5 fps. Apparently this is
because the Elan/100 uses two electric motors to power film rewind and film
advance, whereas the Elan II/30 only has one as a cost-saving measure.
reader. Actually, this fits halfway between like and dont
like. You can scan in various settings into the camera from a custom
barcode reader and list of barcodes. This is clearly a feature aimed at novice
or braindead consumers. Oh, Im taking a photo of a flower, so
I flip through my barcode book until I find a picture of a flower, then scan
in that barcode!
However, what makes it sort of interesting and redeems the feature in my eyes
is that you can replace the built-in idiot modes with your own custom settings.
(the only other EOS camera to have a barcode function, the 10, doesnt
have this ability) So if you never use the sports mode setting, say, you can
find a handy night-mode setting and scan it in. In fact, people have reverse-engineered the
barcode data format and, if you have a program that can print out the
interleaved barcode style, you can actually write your own settings. Thats
sort of fun if youre of a nerdy bent.
The barcode sensor is the translucent red button located immediately above
the film rewind button on the side of the camera.
- Camera shake
warning when the shutter speed is too low for the current focal length, when
the cameras in Program or the idiot modes. Obviously, Real Pros dont
need this feature, but I think its a handy reminder. The Elan II/30
lacks this feature.
- The timer beeps
if youre in a creative zone mode and the beep option (custom
function 6) is enabled, or if youre using one of the idiot modes. Either
way the AF assist light also flashes to let your victims know when to pull
the appropriate funny face for the camera. (nb: the timer does not respect
CF4 and always flashes the the AF light shortly before triggering the shutter.)
Tragically the beeper wont play stupid little tunes for you in timer
mode, the way the 1000N/Rebel II did.
Oddly, the manual which came with my the Elan claims that with CF6 enabled
the camera will also beep when the AF system achieves focus, but my camera
never does that. Apparently this is a mistake in the manual and only the EOS
100 beeps on focus. Either way, Im happy - the green dot in the viewfinder
is adequate focus confirmation for me.
Stuff I dont
like about the Elan/100.
pretty satisfied with the Elan/100. There are issues I have with it, but most
of the cameras design limitations are quite reasonable given price/performance
tradeoffs. There are only a handful of aggravating why did they do it
that way when the better way surely couldnt have cost more? problems.
And of course some of its limitations werent limitations at all at the time
of its release - it was reasonably advanced for its time.
- The Elan/100
has a fairly simple six-zone evaluative metering system. Again, it was good
for its time, but newer cameras have improved evaluative metering with more
zones. (eg: the Rebel 2000/EOS 300 has 35 zones) Itd be nice to have
a camera that handled backlit or high-contrast subjects a bit better without
having to think about it. And a true spotmeter would be nice.
- Autofocus is
pretty good, but hunts a fair bit if its dark or if you give it a low-contrast
area to focus on. This is a particular drag in low-light conditions since
manual focusing is very tricky when the viewfinder is dark. The Elan/100s
viewfinder doesnt have a 1980s-era split-circle focus assist aid or
anything. However, although it doesnt officially have interchangeable
finder screens note that the viewfinder screen from the EF-M (which has split
circle and microprism focus aids) is physically compatible with the Elan/100
and can be installed if you can track down an EF-M screen. Since the EF-M
is long discontinued and Canon no longer stock parts for it this can be tricky.
Your best bet is to find an old broken EF-M or buy a used one and sacrifice
it by putting the screen into your Elan/100.
The cameras bright red AF assist light (or the equivalent on an external
flash unit) helps, though it is a bit irritating for human subjects. The biggest
problem is if you put an external flash onto a bracket - basic geometry then
dictates that the AF assist light wont line up with the centre focus
point most of the time and will flash uselessly out of alignment. (moral:
dont use a bracket for low-light photography)
Still. The Elan/100s low-light sensitivity is much better than a low-end
Rebel and still better than the Elan 7/30s, believe it or not. And at
least it has an AF assist light. New Canons, like the EOS 300/Rebel 2000 and
EOS 30/Elan 7 dont even have this light anymore, amazingly enough.
- The Elan/100
is an older B-type EOS body and so has no E-TTL flash metering
or FP mode (high-speed flash sync) support. Utterly unsurprising, since
E-TTL didnt exist when the Elan/100 was made.
But TTL and A-TTL flash metering are really pretty lame - one area where Nikon
is definitely ahead of Canon, in large part since Nikons flash control
technology uses distance information returned by the lens. A lot of Canons
lenses are capable of returning distance information, but it appears that
Canon dont use this data for patent reasons or somesuch. Also, since
the Elan/100 has a single focus point it cant do multiple-zone flash
metering like the newer cameras can. The new bodies can bias flash exposure
towards the active focus point.
- Only one focusing
point, as noted above.
- The infrared
positioning diode that senses film sprocket holes also fogs the lower edge of Kodaks
HIE infrared film. My particular camera fogs a couple millimetres into the
viewable image area, not just the sprocket holes. The Elan/100 was the first EOS
camera to use IR sprocket hole-counting diodes, in fact. I have another page dealing
with high-speed infrared
film and EOS cameras for those interested.
- In manual mode
theres no actual metering scale. Just arrows telling you whether youre
over or under exposed. Annoying. The EOS 100 has the same problem as the Elan.
(in the case of the A2/EOS 5, the North American camera (A2) lacks a manual
meter but the international version (EOS 5) has one. ROM upgrades to turn
your A2 into an EOS 5 are very popular with North American A2 owners.) The
EOS 50/Elan II and EOS 30/Elan 7 have manual-mode metering scales.
- The Elans
flash program has a serious problem that manifests itself when youre
using an ISO setting of around 2500 or higher. With an ISO speed set this
high TTL flash often stops working. Luckily at film speeds this high youre
probably going to be relying on available light and not on flash, but it does
limit your fill-flash options.
- As with all
of Canons cameras the Elan/100 lacks a (post-exposure) flash confirmation
indicator in the viewfinder. This is apparently for patent reasons, but still
annoying. The 540EZ and most EX-series external flash units have a flash exposure
confirmation lamp, but that means you have to check the back of the flash
unit after each picture - you cant just look for a light in the viewfinder.
Also doesnt help me - I have the 430EZ flash, which lacks this lamp.
- No battery
pack grip was ever made for the Elan/100. You cant use easily-obtainable
and cheap AAs to power the camera - you always have to use expensive lithium
2CR5s. Its true that AAs dont last very long, but having that
option can be a lifesaver if youre in the Middle of Nowhere and run
out of lithium photo cells.
There was an add-on optional grip extension (GR-70), but its just a
lump of rubber with a hand strap. It doesnt give you any additional
buttons (so its of no additional benefit for portrait photography),
it doesnt contain batteries and it lacks a tripod socket so you have
to remove the grip before using the camera with a tripod.
- You cant
move focus control off the shutter release button to a back button like you
can on some higher-end Canons like the A2/EOS 5. Id really like this
feature to avoid the tedious screwing around thats required to get both
focus and exposure settings right in low-light conditions.
- The Elan/100
has metering controls which are adjustable in half stop increments only. It
does not have the ability to adjust exposure settings in third stop intervals
like newer EOS cameras.
- No wired shutter
release socket, unlike the Elan II/50 and 7/30. This betrays its consumer
focus here - there are times, in studio settings, when you want a wired release.
(needless to say the Elan/100 also lacks a PC socket.)The wireless remote
is great, but since the sensor for it is on the front of the camera you have
to move around and point the remote at the front. Great for when you want
to be in the picture; not great if you dont.
Also, the IR sensor is tucked away on the body right below the AF assist LED.
This can be blocked by a large lens or lens hood, which is annoying. The Elan
7/30 is improved in this regard - the IR remote sensor is built into the handgrip
on the front. Incidentally, Ive taken an RC-1 remote and hacked so that
the IR LED is on the end of a little wire with a piece of velcro. That way
I can use it as a wired remote if I want to stand behind the camera in a studio-type
setting. A bit clunky, but it works.
- The shutter
lag (the time between you pushing the shutter button all the way and the camera
actually taking a photo) is definitely better (faster) than low-end Canons
like the Rebel/1000, but is also slower than the 10/10s, which is snappier
by far. I dont know the actual value. Mirror blackout is the same -
shorter than the Rebel/1000 but longer than the 10/10s.
- The internal
flash charges up each time you turn the camera on. Big battery-eater. Of course,
I suppose Ill come to like this feature the next time I need flash to
be instantly available to catch that perfect moment.
- The red-eye
reduction lamp isnt available in the creative modes - P,
Av, Tv and M - if you have second-curtain sync (custom function 2) enabled.
I find the deliberate disabling of this feature somewhat annoying. Obviously
red-eye reduction doesnt work as well if youre using second-curtain
sync with a long shutter time, but that doesnt make it utterly useless.
- No separate
DOF (depth of field) preview button. You can enable custom function 5 and
have the AE lock button double as a DOF preview button, but this can be annoying
if you dont want to lock the exposure settings.
- The flash exposure
compensation settings only control the cameras built-in flash. They
cant control external flash unit compensation, like my 430EZ
Speedlite flash unit. This is apparently not the case with newer Canon
bodies. Luckily the 430EZ has buttons on the back for flash exposure confirmation,
so I dont lose that feature altogether.
- No manual focus
indicator in the viewfinder. A little MF symbol in the viewfinder would save
you that extra second of wondering whether the lens is in auto or manual focus
mode and fumbling for the switch to double-check. The top deck LCD doesnt
display ONE SHOT or AI SERVO in the grey rectangle
area if youre in manual focus mode, but that isnt very helpful.
has only about 90% coverage. Oh, well. Consumer camera. It also isnt
very easy to look into if you wear glasses. Nikons cameras generally
do a much better job of accommodating spectacles wearers.
- No leader-out
custom function for rewind. (leader-out is a very useful thing if you want
to be able to change films midroll and resume shooting with that roll later
on) You can listen to the rewinding very carefully and pop open the back at
the exact moment when the film comes off the spool, but thats obviously
a clumsy way to do things.
- The plastic
handgrip loses its shiny rubber coating with use, becoming patchy and messy.
- I dont
like the command dial lock, because you have to push the centre lock button
down to release it. This is both fiddly to use and vulnerable to the same
infamous problem of command dial breakage that the EOS 5/A2 suffers from.
It really is too bad that Canon refuses to acknowledge the command dial problem
as the design failure it is - sticking consumers with the expensive repair
costs is really unfortunate. It also means that a used Elan/100 might be a
considerably less attractive deal if you have to shell out $100-150 US to
fix the damned thing.
The Elan II/50 and the new Elan 7/30 have the lock button on the side, which
offers the same positive locking functionality but is far more convenient
to operate. (though admittedly is less aesthetically pleasing than having
the lock in the centre.)
- The battery
door doesnt have a proper moving hinge - you flex open the plastic itself,
which eventually will break. Idiotic design. This is a problem especially
in cold weather, because plastic tends to become quite brittle at low temperatures.
And if the door breaks the camera will stop working unless you keep the battery
pushed into place with one hand.
Now I realize you dont change the battery all that often. And Im
sure the hinge has been tested at room temperature to work a certain number
of times. But its more a reminder that the camera simply isnt
built to last. Like a modern car, its designed for the first owner only
- maybe five years. Then itll break and will cost so much to fix you
have to go out and buy a new camera instead. My 25 year-old mechanical Pentax
Spotmatic would probably have been working just fine decades hence had some
scum not stolen it. My Elan will be a useless lump of plastic.
- This applies
to pretty well all cameras these days, but the LCD itself is only supposed
to last 5-10 years or so before it fails. Mines about a decade old,
and is still working, but the fact that it might fail and have to be replaced
at my expense is pretty annoying. See my complaints above about the flimsy
- Making things
worse, the camera was discontinued several years ago and in a few years
time it may not be possible to get it repaired if replacement parts are no
longer available from Canon. The company is only legally obligated to keep
parts on hand for about a decade, I think.
- The latch on
the camera back is made of plastic, not metal. And the catch is exactly the
sort of thing that will snap off with use. For that reason I always push the
door in and release the catch, then open the door with the catch open, in
an attempt to minimize stresses placed on the catch and thus the chances of
it breaking on me. Maybe Im paranoid, but it doesnt take any extra
effort, and Id hate to have the catch break in the middle of a shoot.
- Many late 80s/early
90s EOS cameras, including the Elan/100, have a known problem of black sticky
tar-like stuff appearing on the shutter. This is caused by a foam piece inside
deteriorating and turning into sticky black glue. Fixing the problem requires
replacing the shutter and replacing said piece of foam. Moderately expensive,
as you have to open up the entire camera to do it. You can also clean
the shutter yourself if you feel like taking the chance.
This isn’t a trivial problem. I recently lost about two dozen shots
on a recent shoot because of a gluey shutter - the pictures simply turned
out blank or occasionally grossly underexposed. Frustrating.
- No backlit
top dial and LCD. Makes it a bit of a pain to operate in the dark. Wouldve
cost peanuts to add a couple surface-mounted LEDs in there for night operation.
Or, for a bit more money, an EL backlit screen like on the EOS 620. (one of
the oldest EOS models around)
will change in the future. The EOS Kiss III L, a minor revision to the Kiss
III (Japanese name for the Rebel 2000/EOS 300) sold only in Japan, has an illuminated
top-deck LCD. Lets hope Canon continues this through the line.
- The six-second
timeout on the exposure settings. If youve pushed the shutter release
halfway and have customized the exposure settings and then let go, youve
only got 5-6 seconds before the viewfinder display shuts off and it forgets
whatever youve put in. Thats a bit short sometimes. All EOS cameras
seem to do this, yet only the 1V and 1D has a funtion that lets users extend
this time if they want.
also a timeout on the remote-control sensor. The camera wont recognize
the RC-1 control signals unless youre in self-timer mode, which can
be annoying in itself, but after a few minutes it shuts off the remote sensor
I presume this is some sort of power-saving measure, but its certainly
one that eliminates the possibility for many fun hacks. Lets say that
you wanted to take a photo of a bird flying into its nest. If the remote-control
sensor didnt time out you could rig up a nifty hack so that the bird
could trigger the camera when it crossed a beam of light, say. Sadly you cant
do tricks like this with the Elan/100. And since theres no wired release
socket you cant hack anything together that way, making the Elan/100
utterly unuseable for long-delay triggering.
- No textual
or mnemonic explanation for what the custom functions are.
If Canon were to use a simple dot-addressable LCD they could easily throw
a few bytes of extra data into the ROM that would actually explain what CF
1 or 7 does, so you dont have to tape a photocopy of the manual onto
your camera bag. The digital D30 and D60 cameras have the full text of their
custom functions displayed on the rear screen, which is handy. But oddly the
new Elan 7/30 actually has a smaller LCD than older cameras like the Elan.
The 7/30 also uses cheesy triangular arrow symbols which point to printed
icons on the edge of the LCD, rather than actual symbols on the LCD for some
- No frame counter
information in the viewfinder - just on the top-deck LCD panel.
- No film-plane
mark. People who do precise macro photography want to know where the film
plane is actually located, so they can measure off exact distances. The film
plane mark is a circle with a long line through it, like a sort of Plimsoll
line on a ship. The Elan/100 lacks this. Makes no difference to me, really,
since I dont do this sort of macro photography, but it might bother
someone out there. All the new Canons, even the cheapest Rebels, now have
the film plane mark printed on the top.
- Unlike the
Elan II/30, the self-timer doesnt display countdown information in the
LCD. A shame - its a cute feature.
- If youre
into astrophotography you should know that the Elan/100, like most Canon EOS
cameras, uses power to hold the shutter open in bulb mode. And that can drain
the battery flat in a few hours. Heres a useful table
comparing the various EOS models in this regard.
- The metal tripod
socket is not in line with the lens axis. It wont affect most people
but if, for example, you want to shoot a QuickTime VR panorama and need to
locate the camera on a bracket so that it rotates around the lens nodal point
this might be a minor issue.
- Back isnt
removable. So you cant replace it with a bulk-loader or Polaroid adapter
or date-printer or whatever. This doesnt affect me at all, but as above,
I suppose it might affect someone. There was the 100QD, which was a version
of the 100 with a date-printing back, but since the backs arent interchangeable
you either have a date-printing camera or you dont.
- No interchangeable
finder screens. The 600 series cameras were the last non-pro EOS cameras to
have interchangeable viewfinder screens.
- It aint
sealed. Okay, so Id have to spend fifteen times more money and get a
top of the line EOS 1v or 3 to get a fully-sealed weatherproof camera, but
itd be nice to have some basic rubber seals around things, even if they
werent up to the 1v standard. As it is, its a bit annoying to
shoot for a couple days in a dusty location and finding the battery compartment
lined with a layer of dust. Even cheap portable CD players have little rubber
O-rings around buttons and dials these days.
Ive had to wrap the whole camera in black gaffer tape (not cheap
silver duct tape, which leaves ghastly gluey residues, but expensive gaffer
tape used by film crews) to deal with this. This makes it hard to operate
the controls, of course, so I've also resorted to taping small pieces of transparent
cling film (sandwich wrap plastic film) over key button controls and the top
- NK Guy, PhotoNotes.org.
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